Francheezie: Yet Another Chicago Hot Dog
The hot dog was of the jumbo, casingless variety, unremarkable apart from how crisply bronzed both it and the bacon were by their bath in hot oil. What cheese remained was negligible.
The hot dog was of the jumbo, casingless variety, unremarkable apart from how crisply bronzed both it and the bacon were by their bath in hot oil. What cheese remained was negligible.
The salty, smoky filling stays relatively moist during baking, its steam trapped inside the roll with it
The sauce tastes like something that can’t decide whether it is a bechamel, a gravy, or a cheese sauce and ends up being none of the above. Elements of each present themselves and are subsumed by the whole.
Each bite is a surprise–here a hunk of sausage with slap chips and bbq sauce, there a mouth full of atchar with bacon and tomato relish. It’s too much to take in all at once.
The bread is just a little salty, the crisp-crusted but chewy outer edges giving way to a thin and cracklingly crunchy center topped with garlic and cheese.
Best of all was their take on the breaded pork tenderloin sandwich. In addition to the tomato and lettuce, this sandwich comes with mustard and a pungent, mildly spicy pepper relish. It is frankly astonishing how well this combination worked in the donut bun.
It’s funny, I think of KFC’s Double Down as such an aberrant thing, such a weird one-off American and specifically Midwestern goof of a food dare, but it is hardly unique in its strategy of taking a dish of meat and bread, and replacing the bread with more meat.
This sandwich is an umami overload. Would it be improved by a better bread? Maybe just a touch. But the bread isn’t really the point here.
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