The Xis Burger of Southern Brazil
Hard to believe that it was only 6 months ago–2022 being the longest year in recorded history–that my friend Matt asked me if I’d ever heard of a sandwich from the south Brazilian state...
Hard to believe that it was only 6 months ago–2022 being the longest year in recorded history–that my friend Matt asked me if I’d ever heard of a sandwich from the south Brazilian state...
There is not a thing wrong with this–it is in fact a simple, elemental sandwich, bread and meat and a condiment, combined in just the right ratio, elevated to the sublime by its time in a sandwich press.
Oh mushy peas. Where have you been all my life? How can something so ordinary, so simple be so perfect? They don’t add sweetness or acidity. But they add sunshine and joy somehow
There’s a rugged irregularity to the Beyond Burger’s texture that is very much like actual cooked ground beef. It browns like ground beef and pulls apart under your teeth like ground beef. It tastes almost like ground beef.
The spleen is still the star of the sandwich though, no matter how it is dressed. It’s a strong, pervasive flavor from which the ricotta can provide only temporary respite.
The sauce tastes like something that can’t decide whether it is a bechamel, a gravy, or a cheese sauce and ends up being none of the above. Elements of each present themselves and are subsumed by the whole.
The saltfish buljol tastes much like a ceviche, with the citrus dressing against the sweetness of tomato and bell pepper and the pungency of the onions and culantro.
Black hot dogs for Halloween though? It’s spooky, it’s fun, let’s do it.
This is autumn in a stewpot, a glut of glutamates. The crisp-crusted bread houses an open but chewy crumb that absorbs sauce without falling apart or leaking it
These tomato slices are bursting with sweet juice that, complemented by mayonnaise and amplified by the salt and fresh black pepper, boosts the savory profile of the tomato flesh.
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