Chicago Sandwich Canon: The South Side’s Jim Shoe
A good Jim Shoe is a mess, combining corned beef, roast beef, gyro meat, onions, mustard, gyro sauce, cheese, lettuce and tomato in a hoagie roll. It is a lot.
A good Jim Shoe is a mess, combining corned beef, roast beef, gyro meat, onions, mustard, gyro sauce, cheese, lettuce and tomato in a hoagie roll. It is a lot.
Winking’s deli stocks a small, slightly old-fashioned selection of deli meats and cheeses. They offer a sandwich menu as well, providing simple lunches at prices from a different century.
Sometime in the early 1980s at the Hardee’s in Macomb, IL, a farmer named Harold would come in every day at 4am and order a Frankenstein dish of his own concoction.
The “Ground Steak Sandwich,” almost entirely unknown outside Mt Airy, is a loosemeat sandwich similar to a Maid Rite, served in a hamburger bun and dressed with tomato, coleslaw, and mayonnaise.
The finished grillades smelled outstanding. The sweet paprika, the fennel, the aromatic herbs de provence only served to emphasize their essential porkiness.
Provolone in the Americas is a mild cheese, well suited for sandwiches, and here it allows the aromatic qualities of the mortadella to lead–nutmeg, coriander, black pepper, warming spices.
As with other kebabs of this type, Donair are said to be best when cut directly from the spit and onto the bread they’ll be served in. The less time between the fire and one’s mouth the better.
We had a lot of good sandwiches on that trip, but something about that Chopped Cheese sandwich had captured our imagination. It had some kind of alchemical magic about it, a combination of simple ingredients that was greater than the sum of its parts. We tried for months to make our own version at home. We got pretty close. But I think part of the magic of the sandwich is the locality of it, the immediacy of it. To be able to walk into a corner store, order a sandwich, and just a couple minutes and a couple bucks later walk out with a chopped cheese–that’s a magic that isn’t available outside certain parts of New York.
The word chimichurri refers to a South American sauce used in sandwiches and on grilled meats. Popular in Argentina, it is made from parsley, garlic, olive oil, red wine vinegar, and a little dried...
So what is chop suey? Is it truly a Chinese dish, or an invention of Chinese-American restaurants? In essence it was a compromise dish, an application of Chinese techniques to mostly-familiar items and flavors.
Recent Comments