There’s a rugged irregularity to the Beyond Burger’s texture that is very much like actual cooked ground beef. It browns like ground beef and pulls apart under your teeth like ground beef. It tastes almost like ground beef.
The spleen is still the star of the sandwich though, no matter how it is dressed. It’s a strong, pervasive flavor from which the ricotta can provide only temporary respite.
The sauce tastes like something that can’t decide whether it is a bechamel, a gravy, or a cheese sauce and ends up being none of the above. Elements of each present themselves and are subsumed by the whole.
In November, the Tribunal will be covering Pittsburgh’s Turkey Devonshire, the Sicilian Vastedda, and Veggie Burgers
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