This is an absolutely enormous sandwich, filling without feeling heavy, crisp and balanced, nutty and sweet, savory and salty, with a bit of bitter flavor from the lettuce and sprouts, and just a hint of vinegary bite from the mayonnaise.
In February, the Tribunal will try Mauritian Roti Chaud, Australian Salad Sandwiches, and the Paraguayan Sandwich de Empanada
A breaded, fried pork cutlet, simply seasoned, is a universal delight, from the tenderloins of Iowa, Illinois, and Indiana to the tonkatsu of Japan. These were no exception.
Fragrant pork is combined with a soft, milky stracchino along with dried tomatoes, chewy, intensely sweet, sour, and savory all at once; and a handful of peppery/bitter arugula. It’s an almost perfect combination of flavors
Feta cheese is egg’s natural partner, briny and sharp and sour in ways that complement the mildly savory substance of the egg, and the kashkaval’s good melting qualities help glue the egg and feta to the toast.
After hours in the oven the roast fell apart, shredding easily into flavorful, aromatic strands of meat, coated with fat and gelatin, sweet and pungent from garlic and fennel.
Pit beef tasting of charcoal fire, piled high, succulent and savory, punctuated by the pungent crispness of onion and the sinus-singeing horseradish sting, well-enveloped by a bread roll that was just sturdy enough to contain this mess
Pork sliced thin, tender and dripping with juices; braised greens garlicky and mildly bitter; sharp provolone salty with the sour/bitter funk of an aged cheese, all contained by a terrific hoagie roll, crusty but light
The bread was chewy like a good pizza crust, and the fat rendered from the pepperoni found its way into the roll’s crumb, tinting the bread orange
Pav bhaji’s base of vegetables takes a back seat to the sweet and pungent onion, the deep and lasting umami of the tomato the brightness of cilantro, the sharpness of chilies, the aromatic spices of the masala
The vegetables provided plenty of crunch, and the sweet/sour of the pickle relish helped bring out the pleasantly assertive flavor of the pheasant. More mayo wouldn’t be unwelcome–but it would be unnecessary.
The fry sauce is a bit sweeter than a Russian dressing but has more zip than Thousand Island; it works with the pastrami, the American cheese, the burger patty, even the pickles and onion slices–it ties the sandwich together.
The panelle are all texture, little flavor, and the brightness of lemon juice and the pungency of parsley do little to punctuate the overall beigeness of the thing.
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